Recently we have been pet sitting for a household that has a pet that has sever separation anxiety. Perhaps you have experienced this before? You leave the house for work or errands and come back to things destroyed. I don’t mean like your dog chewed up a toy…I mean like couches are eaten, holes in the wall, and anything they can get their paws on has been scratched, and teeth on has been chewed. This is separation anxiety.

As professional pet sitters we see this all the time. Dogs are den animals. I believe the American Humane Society describes it perfectly:

Why use a den?

Dogs are den animals. They need their own sanctuary that is just large enough for them to fit inside and feel secure. They need a “home away from home” where they can go when they are stressed. If you don’t provide your dog a “den” of its own, it may make do with whatever is around — a chair, the narrow place behind the couch, or the wedge of space between the bed and the wall.

A crate is an indoor doghouse that is used for brief periods of time. Its primary function is to serve as a bed or den. It can also be an ideal tool to housetrain your pet or to keep canines that suffer from separation anxiety from destroying the house while you run a few errands. However, the dog is not supposed to live in the crate. Endless hours in the crate can lead to severe social and isolation problems for your dog — and it will no longer see the crate as a special retreat.

When you are home, your dog needs to be out with you. In fact, the crate should be kept in the room where the family spends most of its time. That way, your dog can seek refuge from the hubbub of household activity, yet still feel like a part of the family.

Once your dog realizes that the crate is a sanctuary and that no one can bother it while it is in its “den,” your dog will begin to seek out the crate on its own. For more information on crate training, call your local animal shelter.

More information that you should read can be found here: http://www.hsus.org/pets/pet_care/our_pets_for_life_program/dog_behavior_tip_sheets/separation_anxiety.html

The next time you consider leaving for long amounts of time and your pet experiences anxiety, consider crating them, sectioning off part of the home, or providing them with a “safe” place. This will help easy their fears when mom and dad is not there.

This information has been provided to you by Danielle Vasta, the Pack Leader for Bella’s House & Pet Sitting in Scottsdale AZ. Danielle has been recongnised as a pet sitting expert in The FabJob Guide to Becoming a Pet Sitter, Martha Stewarts Cat Chat Radio Show, NPRs Dog Talk Radio, East Valley Tribune, Arizona Republic and more. Danielle is also the founder of Bella’s Business Consulting and the co founder of The Business of Pet Sitting online community.

By Danielle Vasta

Is your dog responsible for the disruption of your neighbors peaceful day while you are at work or running errands? I know this can be a huge problem here on the ranch, and we have serviced residents that have had these problems. Barking dogs can result in noise complaints to authorities and conflicts with neighbors. Good news is, it is a behavioral problem and there is a fix for this! It takes some time, but try these tips if you encounter this problem:
 

1) Dogs bark to get your attention. Next time he does this when you are home, ignore it!

2) If they are barking, it could be because they are not used to being left alone. Practice leaving them alone and sneak back to your house to determine when the barking is happening.

3) If he barks when you leave, do not make a big deal (or say good bye) when you leave the house. Turn the tv or radio on so he still hears sound.

4) If he barks after a long while, they are board. Leave them a doggy popsicle in a kong or chew for them to gnaw on for hours. (contact me for free recipes!)

5) Hire a pet sitter to come into your home and exercise and play with your dog. Chances are they are board because you are gone for 8+ hours a day!

Remember, this is a serious problem and should not be taken lightly. It is getting to heat up this time of year and leaving pets alone outside and unattended could be fatal. Keep them indoors and consider giving them a friend at Bella’s to keep them company! Special discount if you mention this article. This article has been provided to you from Bella’s House & Pet Sitting (480)330-4552. See our website for more information. www.BellasHouseAndPets.com

Interesting article I found while getting information for one of my employee’s at Bella’s House & Pet Sitting about Pet CPR and First Aid… Photo courtesy of www.sunnydogink.com

CATS AND DOGS

picture taken from this site

Vital Statistics: Pulse and Heart Rate
Normal resting rates:

• Cats: 150-200 bpm
• Small dogs: 90-120 bpm
• Medium dogs: 70-110 bpm
• Large dogs: 60-90 bpm

Pulse should be strong, regular and easy to locate.

Checking the pulse
The easiest place to locate a pulse is the femoral artery in the groin area. Place your fingers on the inside of the hind leg and slide your hand upward until the back of your fingers touches the abdomen. Gently move your fingers back and forth on the inside of the hind leg until you feel the pulsing blood. Count the number of pulses in 15 seconds and multiply that number by 4. This will give you the beats per minute (bpm).

Temperature
Normal temp. for dogs and cats: 100-102.5 degrees
Thermometer should be almost clean when removed.
Abnormalities are indicated by blood, diarrhea, or black, tarry stool.

Basic First Aid Procedures
All of the following situations require immediate veterinary care.

1. Fractures
   • Muzzle animal.
   • Gently lay animal on a board, wooden door, tarp, etc. padded with blankets.
   • Secure animal to the support.
   • Do not attempt to set the fracture.
   • If a limb is broken, wrap the leg in cotton padding, then wrap with a magazine, rolled newspaper, towel or two sticks. Splint should extend one joint above the fracture and one joint below. Secure with tape. Make sure wrap does not constrict blood flow.
   • If the spine, ribs, hip, etc. appears injured or broken, gently place the animal on the stretcher and immobilize it if possible.
2. Bleeding (external)
   • Muzzle animal.
   • Press thick gauze pad over wound. Hold firmly until clotting occurs.
   • If bleeding is severe, apply a tourniquet between the wound and the heart.
   • Loosen tourniquet for 20 seconds every 15-20 minutes.
   • A tourniquet is dangerous and should only be used in life-threatening hemorrhaging of a limb. It may result in amputation or disability of the limb.
3. Bleeding (internal)
   • Symptoms: bleeding from nose, mouth, rectum; coughing blood; blood in urine; pale gums; collapse; rapid or weak pulse.
   • Keep animal as warm and quiet as possible.
4. Burns
   • Chemical
     • Muzzle animal.
     • Flush immediately with large quantities of cold water.
   • Severe
     • Muzzle animal.
     • Quickly apply ice water compresses.
     • Treat for shock if necessary.
5. Shock
   • Symptoms: weak pulse; shallow breathing; nervousness; dazed appearance.
   • Often accompanies severe injury or extreme fright.
   • Keep animal restrained, quiet and warm.
   • If unconscious, keep head level with rest of body.

Restraint Methods
If your animal is injured, you must restrain him/her for your safety as well as your pet’s. Muzzle your pet to restrain it unless it is unconscious, has difficulty breathing or has a mouth injury.

Dogs–Muzzles

1. Speak and move calmly and quietly.
2. Have someone restrain the dog with a leash.
3. Approach dog from the side and behind its head; do not attempt to put muzzle on from the front.
4. Quickly slip a nylon or wire cage muzzle over nose, secure snugly behind ears.
5. If a muzzle is not available, you can make one from a strip of gauze, rag, necktie, belt or rope about 3 feet long.
   • Make a large loop in the center. Quickly slip loop over dog’s nose.
   • Bring ends under chin. Tie snugly behind ears.

Cats–Muzzles

1. Speak and move calmly and quietly.
2. Have someone restrain the cat by holding the scruff of its neck firmly. This does not hurt the cat; it just prevents him/her from moving.
3. Working from behind the cat, quickly slip a nylon muzzle over the cat’s face. The muzzle will cover most of his/her face, including the eyes. Secure snugly behind head.
4. If you are alone, scruff the cat with one hand and put the muzzle over the cat’s face with the other. Slide both hands along muzzle straps and secure behind the head.
5. If a muzzle is not available, one can be made with a rag or a strip of gauze. Make sure that it is carefully placed around the cat’s mouth and securely fastened, as cats can escape from these temporary muzzles.

Cats–Body Restraint

1. Most cats can be restrained by holding the scruff of the neck.
2. The “Cat Sack” can be used for fractious or very frightened cats. Slip sack over cat from tail to head, zip up appropriate zippers.
3. Wrap cat in a towel, making, sure his/her front legs are covered and against the body.
4. Gloves are not recommended for handling cats. They reduce the handler’s dexterity and can easily be penetrated by a cat’s teeth.

BIRDS

Basic First Aid Procedures
All of the following situations require immediate veterinary care.

1. Fractures
   • Wing
     • Restrain bird by wrapping in a towel or slipping into a sock with the toe cut out.
   • Leg
     • Restrain bird by wrapping in a towel or sock, leaving leg exposed.
     • Splint leg with 2 pieces of adhesive tape placed perpendicular to leg across break site.
2. Bleeding
   • Broken “blood” feather (new feather)
     • Pull feather out gently; bleeding should decrease.
     • Press finger over removal site until bleeding stops.
   • Wound or broken nail
     • Apply pressure to site with finger(s). Bleeding should decrease.
     • Apply “Quick Stop” powder or styptic to stop bleeding.
     • Flour or cornstarch can be used in an emergency.
3. Puncture Wounds
   • Wrap bird in towel or sock.
     • See veterinarian: antibiotics are required to prevent infections.

Restraint

1. Carefully wrap bird in towel, gently folding his/her wings against the body. Keep your hands out of the way of the beak.
2. Gloves are not recommended for bigger birds. They reduce the handler’s dexterity and strong beaks can easily penetrate them.

SMALL MAMMALS AND REPTILES

Restraint

1. Wrap the animal in a towel or rag, gently folding his/her legs against the body.

This material produced by the
Palo Alto Humane Society in conjunction with the American Red Cross Northern California Disaster Preparedness Network and the Independent Living Resource Center, San Francisco, CA in cooperation with June Kailes, Disability Consultant through a grant from The American Red Cross Northern California Disaster Preparedness Network

I got this from a friend in an email and thought it was cute!

If I Didn’t Have Dogs…

I could walk around the yard barefoot in safety. My house could
be carpeted instead of tiled and laminated. All flat surfaces,
clothing, furniture, and cars would be free of hair. When the
doorbell rings, it wouldn’t sound like a kennel.

If I Didn’t Have Dogs…
When the doorbell rings, I could get to the door without wa ding
through fuzzy bodies who beat me there. I could sit on the couch
and my bed the way I wanted, without taking into consideration how
much space several furry bodies would need to get comfortable.
I would have money…..and no guilt to go on a real vacation. I would
not be on a first-name basis with 6 veterinarians, as I put
their yet unborn grand kids through college.

If I Didn’t Have Dogs…

The most used words in my vocabulary would not be: out, sit,
down, come, no, stay, and leave him/her/it ALONE. My house
would not be cordoned off into zones with baby gates or
barriers. My house would not look like a day care center,
toys everywhere. My pockets would not contain things
like poop bags, treats and an extra lea sh.

If I Didn’t Have Dogs…

I would no longer have to spell the words B-A-L-L, F-R-I-S-B-E- E,
W-A-L-K, T-R-E-A-T, B-I-K-E, G-O, R-I-D-E I would not have as
many leaves INSIDE my house as outside. I would not look strangely
at people who think having ONE dog/cat ties them down too much.
I’d look forward to spring and the rainy season instead of dreading
‘mud’ season.

If I Didn’t Have Dogs…

I would not have to answer the question ‘Why do you have so many
animals?’ from people who will never have the joy in their lives of
knowing they are loved unconditio nally by someone as close to an angel
as they will ever get. Remember, D-O-G spelled backwards is G-O-D!

How EMPTY my life would be!

The holidays can be a fun and joyous time for everyone. Keep these quick tips in mind to ensure that you and your pets have a memorable holiday season!

-          Many plants such as poinsettia’s are toxic to pets. Please keep the plants out of their reach!

-           Christmas trees are magnets for pets! Be sure not to decorate your tree too low where your dogs tail would knock off ornaments or your cat could bat off the decorations. Consider setting up a barrier between your pet and the tree. Do not underestimate their ability to cause your whole tree to fall down or spark a fire.

-          Metal tinsel if digested could provide life threatening intestinal blockage. Be sure that your decorations in your four legged loved ones reach are pet friendly!

-          Cords from lights and other decorations can be chewed by cats, dogs, rabbits, and other pets. Be sure to secure the cords to the floor with tape or stick them under the rug.

-          Some pets can get anxious or shy during the holidays because of all the extra noises, smells, and people. Be sure to allow a “quite place” in your house where they can feel comfortable during these times.

-          Just because your pet eats it, or begs for food does not mean it is good for them! To avoid a trip to the vet’s office avoid all alcoholic beverages, chocolate, coffee, onions, turkey, pork, salt, processed sugar, raisins, grapes, fatty foods, yeast dough and macadamia nuts and table scraps.

This information has been provided to you by Danielle Vasta, Owner of Bella’s House & Pet Sitting. Please contact her at: (480)330-4552 or www.BellasHouseAndPets.com for any of your pet sitting needs!

As I was driving around McDowell Mountain Ranch this past month, I could not but help notice the abundance of wildlife running around. It is not uncommon for me to see coyotes, rabbits, bobcats, and once even a mountain lion! As recently as this week, there was a man on the news who lost 3 of his 4 dogs to a coyote attack in his own backyard. This all got me thinking about the safety and security of your four legged loved ones and prompted me to do some research. Here is what I found from the Arizona Game and Fish Department:

• Coyotes have adapted to living in cities, suburbs and rural towns.  They live in our neighborhoods and do not just  “come down from the mountain to have a snack.”

• If one appears in your backyard or while walking your pet you should try and appear as large and as threatening as possible moving your arms and legs around.

• It is suggested that you keep a “coyote shaker” in your backyard near the door. This is a soda can with pennies or rocks in it sealed with duct tape. When shaken it makes a loud rattle and will scare a coyote off.

Discourage them from your yard by:

-eliminating any sources of food

-store garbage in a secure place

-keep bird seed and water off the ground.

- have an 8ft of higher fence. Coyotes can easily jump 6 ft.

• When outside with your pets – supervise your dog or cat at all times. Coyotes and other wildlife will not hesitate to take your pet while you are with it or even when it is on a leash. NEVER let your pet off the leash! (besides – it is a law!)

• Do not let your cat or small dog outside. Even if there is not a coyote present, owls, hawks and other wildlife have been known to prey on these types of animals.

• Having a coyote in your neighbor’s yard is the same as having one in yours. Be extra careful if there is an attack in your neighborhood. Coyotes remember and come back for more.

• Fence your garden to keep out javelina and rabbits because they serve as prey for species such as mountain lions.

• Shrubbery should be trimmed from the ground up.

This information has been provided to you by Danielle Vasta, Owner of Bella’s House & Pet Sitting. Please contact her at: (480)330-4552 or www.BellasHouseAndPets.com for any of your pet sitting needs!

From the ASPCA website

Top 10 Nutritional Tips for Overweight Pets

Obesity is an extremely common problem in pets and, as with humans, can be detrimental to the health of a dog or cat. The overweight pet has many added stresses upon his body and is at an increased risk of diabetes, liver problems and joint pain.

1. Obesity develops when energy intake exceeds energy requirements. The excess energy is then stored as fat. Once a pet is obese, he may remain obese even after excessive caloric intake stops. The majority of cases of obesity are related to simple overfeeding coupled with lack of exercise.

2. Certain groups of dogs appear more prone to obesity than others. Specific breeds (Labrador retrievers and pugs, for example) and older dogs are particularly prone.

3. Although there’s less data regarding obesity in cats, it appears to be less common in cats than in dogs. It has been suggested that cats have a much better ability to regulate their own energy intake.

4. Is your cat too fat? Is your dog a hog? As a subjective assessment of body condition, you should be able to feel the backbone and palpate the ribs in an animal of healthy weight. If you cannot feel your pet’s ribs without pressing, there is too much fat.

5. Also, you should see a noticeable “waist” between the back of the rib cage and the hips when looking at your pet from above. Viewed from the side, there should be a “tuck” in the tummy—the abdomen should go up from the bottom of the rib cage to inside the thighs. Cats or dogs who fail these simple tests may be overweight. ***IMPORTANT***

6. An additional factor to be considered when managing obesity in cats is hunting. It may be necessary to confine your cat to the house to prevent “additions” to the diet.

7, 8, & 9. We recommend that you consult your pet’s vet before starting on a weight loss program, which should include these major areas:

7. Correct Diet
Overweight animals consume more calories than they require. Work with your veterinarian to determine your pet’s caloric requirements, select a suitable food and calculate how much to feed. The diet should contain a normal level of a moderately fermentable fiber and the type of fat that prevents the skin and coat from deteriorating during weight loss. Diets that dilute calories with high fiber lead to increased stool volumes, frequent urges to defecate and variable decreases in nutrient digestibility.

8. Exercise
Increasing physical activity can be a valuable contributor to both weight loss and maintenance. Regular exercise burns more calories, reduces appetite, changes body composition and will increase your pet’s resting metabolic rate.

9. Owner Behavior Modification
A successful weight management program requires permanent changes in the behaviors that have allowed the pet to become overweight. Perhaps you are giving your pet too many treats, for example, or not giving him enough opportunities to exercise.

10. Are you committed to your pet’s weight loss? Here are some important things you can do:
- Remove the pet from the room when the family eats.
- Feed your pet several small meals throughout the day.
- Feed all meals and treats in the pet’s bowl only.
- Reduce snacks or treats.
- Provide non-food related attention.

This information has been provided to you by Danielle Vasta, Owner of Bella’s House & Pet Sitting. Please contact her at: (480)330-4552 or www.BellasHouseAndPets.com for any of your pet sitting needs!